After a 25 year hiatus I recently made a return to the stunningly beautiful region of Patagonia with its glorious mountains, glaciers, lakes and rivers.
The Torres del Paine National Park (N.P.) in southern Chile has increased in popularity considerably since I last visited, but not all for the worse. There is a much greater emphasis on conservation and care for the environment than there ever was, perhaps in part due to the hugely destructive forest fires that swept through the N.P. in 2005 and 2011/12. This destruction is still evident today from the dead timbers that line sections of the walking trails.
Smoking and usage of camping stoves are now strictly limited to designated areas only within the park's refugios (campsites). There is also a no tolerance policy on littering which I’m pleased to say I saw no evidence of. In contrast, this is not often the case in the U.K’s areas of outstanding beauty.
Organising the walk itself was done months in advance unlike 25 years ago when as far as I recall, I turned up and start hiking the following day. Furthermore, a ranging level of comforts are now catered for from full board hostel rooms with beds and linen, to taking your own tent, sleeping bag and food supplies. Differing combinations are available to cater for varying budgets.
The walk itself is spectacular with the principal sights including the retreating Grey glacier - a huge expanse of ice which regularly deposits icebergs into the adjacent vibrant blue lake of the same name, the French Valley - where avalanches of snow echo like thunder through the ravine, and the majestic three granite towers that the park is named after, appearing as lit candles as the dawn sun strikes their grey surfaces on a clear morning.
With up to 13 miles of up and down stretches over 5 days, the trek isn’t always easy, especially when laden with a full pack. I found the steep gradient on the approach to Refugio Chileno particularly challenging. The quality of the scenery is what brought me back to this wonderful part of the world however, making the soreness of feet, shoulders and body in general all seem worthwhile.
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